From the Tobago Cays we sailed back to Mayreau where we had anchored before leaving for Bequia. We wanted to do the hike over the ridge to Saltwhistle Bay, a very popular anchorage for cruising boats.
We packed a picnic to have on the windward beach near Saltwhistle and headed off. As it turned out it was quite the walk. We think nothing of hiking a mile at home; however a mile climbing in 30 degree plus heat (90 F) is a different matter.
There is only one road and it climbs up through a small village. This was one of the more unique and funky restaurants and bars. Most of the villages have more bars than shops. In fact the island of Carriacou, population less than 5,000 claims they have over 90 rum bars.
Gratefully we did spend some time on the windward beach and had our picnic and a swim. We watched several young French men kite sailing off the beach. Themselves and their gear had been brought by a fishing boat from Union Island.
From Saline Bay we motorsailed across to the western coast of Union Island and a lovely bay called Chatham. There are no roads here so the people here are mostly fishermen who come by boat. There are several quaint beach type bars that cater to the charter boats but no other services.
We have found that the prices in The Grenadines are way out of line due to the increase of the charter business and people willing to pay inflated prices. Ordinarily you can buy fish from the locals for a reasonable price; however here there are too many people trying to make a fast buck. We keep saying we aren't going to buy more fish and be taken to the cleaners but mahi mahi is hard to turn down. Dr. G was just one more of the local sheisters, who to add insult to injury broke our fillet knife. The mahi mahi was delish but the price was unfair.
The next day a local fisherman sold us a snapper for a very fair price so it is possible to find honest people but increasingly more difficult.
From Chatham Bay we moved around the island to Frigate Rock and the small village of Ashton. We paddled into the village and had a walk around. Unlike Union where boats clear in and out of The Grenadines, Ashton is a sleepy fishing village.
From Chatham Bay we headed into Union Island where we were greeted by a local boat boy with a cheerful "Welcome to paradise....would you like any diesel, water or ganja (marijhuana)? Everything for happiness on this small island of less than five thousand.
We did our usual stops of bakery, market, and grocery store along with our favourite take out food lady. Rob had to have coconut water; however drinking the water out of the shell without a straw was a little bit of a challenge. Coconut water is sterile and is very good for you; however it is not a practical fruit for the boat!? After all our chores were done it was time for Rob to go to Customs and Immigration and clear us out of the country.
It is always wonderful to go to town and trade garbage for fresh vegetables! I have learned to cook plaintains which look like bananas and fy up in butter, rum and cinnamon as a side dish. We have also been cooking and eating christophene which is a squash like vegetable like our zuchinni. We eat mangoes on our cereal as well as lots of bananas and the grapefruit and oranges are delicious. Just recently I made soursop juice from a big green prickly plant. When in deh islands, yah gotta eat deh island foods.
Our plan after clearing out of Union Island was to sail over to Petite Martinique and Petite St. Vincent. We will clear customs for Grenada after the weekend in Carriacou where we spent some time last year. The islands of Petite Saint Vincent (belonging to St. Vincent and The Grenadines) and Petite Martinique (belonging to Grenada) are a mile apart and the customs people don't seem to get too upset if you spend a day or two there between countries. Petite St. Vincent is a private island with a small upscale resort. The summer rates for the resort are $7,000 a week for a one bedroom cottage with 3 meals a day ; however alcohol is not included. Petite Martinique is a small village of less than one thousand.
They make their living by fishing and the tradition of wooden boat building. Fibreglass hurt the industry for awhile but there seems to be a resurgence of the trade and the anchorage was a tribute to the skills of the local boat builders.
Fishing and workboats are all along the beach in Petite Martinique interspersed among the rum bars.
Drinking is a popular past time in deh islands. Celebrian is never far from a beach bar??
We hiked around Petite Martinique. The island in the distance is Petite St. Vincent, also known as PSV.
You can really see the reef systems from up high. We had a picnic stop and soaked in the views.
PSV from Petite Martinique ....we anchored where you see the sailboat in this picture.
You need good tires or be a goat on these islands to get around???
Some of the homes on Petite Martinique were so quaint. I just loved the lace curtains in this little cabin.
There is a humanitarian project on Petite Martinique called Sunflower Spices that use solar to breakdown bananas and similar fruit like plaintains, sweet potato, bluggos, breadfruit into a flour mixture. The picture shows the dryers and the boxes of empty fruit. The flour is then donated to hospitals, the elderly and others in need. We gave them a donation and received a small bag of flour to try from the founder Osbert Felix. You use approximately one quarter of your recipe with this flour. and it should provide some banana flavouring.
The anchorage at PSV is in lovely sand. We thought we were going to fill our water tank with this cloud; however it blew over for the most part and all we got was an increase in wind.
