Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Rock and Roll in the Exumas






















Rock and Roll in the Exumas
We decided that we had had enough rocking and rolling in the Bell anchorage the other morning so we hoisted anchor and headed around to the other side of the island hoping to find some refuge. We anchored in a bay that gave us more protection from the surge and enjoyed a calmer rest of the day. We had a nice snorkel around a small coral head in the bay. The water is so clear here that it is a joy wherever one snorkels. Yesterday we knew we had to leave Bell Island because of the next wind change so we meandered our way through some sand banks and anchored off of another private island called Little Hall's Pond Cay. The park controls the waters around these private islands but the islands themselves belong to some verrry rich people. They post signs on the beach asking you not to come ashore;however the beach is public up unto the high water mark just like at home. We might stop on the beach to get warm while we are snorkelling but we respect people's privacy; although we have yet to see a soul anywhere except a couple of people cleaning a beach back on Bell Island. The anchorage off of Little Hall's Pond was a little crazy with the tidal current and the wind direction until the wind finished its clocking and we were protected from the cay. It is very unnerving when the waves are hitting the boat from the stern and you are anchored and sometimes the boat goes around a full 360 degrees. This is when you hope that Big Bruce, (our Bruce anchor) is well buried and doesn't trip himself. The crazy water comes at tidal changes so that is four times a day. We both slept with one ear listening for changes and the instruments and the cockpit prepared if we needed to re set the anchor in the middle of the night. Such is life on a home that moves....sometimes you don't want to be moving but you don't always have a choice. Things are much calmer this morning because we have had the wind shift and we are in the lee of the cay.
Once again we took the opportunity to go snorkelling along the areas of our anchorage and once again we were rewarded with seeing another turtle and lots of other fish. The whole Exuma chain is one big sea aquarium but the fish are definitely most abundant in the park. We tossed a pot of chicken juices and bones overboard after dinner and as soon as the juice hit the water there was a skirmish of large fish...maybe jacks of some kind? The sting rays would hoover up the bones but the fish are after the fat. I decided to try the same test in our most recent anchorage at Pipe Creek out of the park and wouldn't you know it...not a single fish appeared. I think my theory that there are more fish in the park is correct. They also seem less skitterish in the park because they know that they are safe, not that Rob and I much of a threat to the fish in The Bahamas? Before heading south to Pipe Creek we did some snorkelling at a dive site called the Sea Aquarium and it is quite stunning. We had been there last year with Lynn and Peter and we knew that we wanted to go back. Both of us had our cameras so here is hoping that we got some good shots. Much like the Thunderball grotto in Staniel Cay the pretty little sergeant major fish come right up to you. The first year when i snorkelled at the grotto I took bread crumbs and was mobbed and had fish kissing my arms...quite the sensation.
First Edition is on her way north to meet us in the next few days. We are excited to see them and spend a couple of weeks cruising with them before Lynn flies home to New Jersey to see her rheumatoid arthritis specialist. Peter will stay here and we hope that once she is back they will join us in the Jumentos for a couple of weeks before we need to think about heading north again. Everyone thinks that three months is a long time; however the time flies by and when you live on a sail boat you aren't in a position to hurry.
Pipe Creek is a lovely spot to anchor as it is protected on all sides but it is a real challenge getting in and out of here. We always time our comings and goings on a rising tide but have yet to get in or out of here without going aground at least once. Even so...we really like it in here once we get in safely. We have tried a new anchorage and are in here by ourselves. We have seen far few cruisers this year and we aren't sure why. It would seem that the Europeans and Canadians are still coming but there are far fewer Americans. Perhaps Lynn and Peter will have an opinion on why that is?
Today the captain is scraping Celebrian's rub rails and tomorrow he will put on a coat of cetol. We aren't sure yet where we will go for him to varnish as that needs a good week but for now he is happy doing the cetol. I feel a little boat bound at times because of not being able to paddle with my arm; however I keep reminding myself that at least we are here and at least I can snorkel and get back on the boat. Hopefully we will get for an explore in Goldberry tomorrow after Rob gets the first coat of cetol on Celebrian. I use these times to catch up on the blog writing and do some baking. I have also been enjoying some reading time and am on my fourth good book so I can't complain.
Today is January 29th and the captain is doing his first coat of cetol and I am about to do some stainless steel polishing. Yesterday I did some snorkelling at slack tide on coral near where we are anchored and saw all kinds of fish...triggerfish, sergeant majors, groupers, angel fish, squirrel fish and an array of others. In the afternoon I did some exploring of Thomas Cay and found a path to the ocean as well as the cut. Cuts are the openings from the ocean or sound side to through to the bank or shallow side of the islands (cays pronounced keys). When the weather is good we like to sail out on the ocean and fish; however we always have the option of sailing on the more sheltered side of the islands. The water on the bank side is usually less than 20 feet so we don't troll unless we want to catch a barracuda. 
Some of the pictures in this entry are...Norman's Cay beach, our hermit crab George before his release, Pipe Creek Yacht club, Thomas Cut beach and Pipe Creek anchorage.

1 comment:

  1. Hope that shoulder holds up. The snorkelling sounds fantastic. Definitely one of my favourite activities when I'm South.

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