Eleuthera Delights

Eleuthera Delights
We left Rock Sound at 7am on Saturday March 20th for the 50 mile passage across the banks to Current Cut on the western side of Eleuthera. Current Cut is the name given to the cut through between the two islands of Current and Eleuthera. Sailboats have to time their transit through current cut because of the tide. We were fortunate that we hit the tide on its ebb and had a 8-9 knot ride through the cut. It is much easier to go with the flow than to fight upstream as long as you have good control. We anchored on the west side of Current Settlement for the night and had a nice quiet evening. The night before we had unenjoyed several hours of loud bar music outside of Rock Sound settlement so we were grateful of the peaceful anchorage. The next day we had a deightful sail to Spanish Wells where we are on a mooring waiting for the next cold front to pass so that we can go to Harbour Island.
We had been to Spanish Wells two years ago and had enjoyed our time here. It is an unusual community ...about 800 hundred citizens, all white, very religious, very affluent,hard working and most of the men and their sons work on huge lobster boats. Spanish Wells supplies well over half of the Bahamas' commercial crop of lobster, conch and fish. It is difficult for a 16 year old boy to say no to a job that can bring him a hundred grand a year...why would you stay in school? As for the girls they marry the young boys and continue to live here and have their families. There are about 8 main surnames for the phone book so most everyone is related. The last time we were here was after lobster season and the boats were all here; however this year the boats are all out of port until the end of March. We are hoping to buy some lobster but unfortunately it will likely be frozen.
Yesterday we went for a walk around the island called St. George's Cay...about 2.5 miles long by a quarter mile wide at its largest section. Most of it is the settlement of Spanish Wells. Evidence of the island's industriousness and economic prosperity is seen in the well kept homes, both modern and historical, as well as the heavy vehicular traffic of scooters, motorcycles, cars and trucks. It seems out of place to see a sport's car here instead of the usual golf carts. The name of Spanish Wells is derived from an early explorer who found fresh water here and Spanish galleons drew water here before returning across the Atlantic. The community dates back to the 17th century when the Eleutheran adventurers left England looking for religious freedom. On our walk we met Rita, the local manatee who spends a fair amount of time at the town dock. The locals come and feed her lettuce and she gets a little fresh water from time to time. Lynn had never seen a manatee and before she was through she had poured most of her water bottle out for Rita. One of the locals said that fresh water was like cocaine to a manatee. I do remember them in the marina in Titusville, Florida. They were lured in by the fresh water being used by boaters to wash their boats off. The marina didn't want the manatees coming in because they get hit by boat propellers but they had no way of keeping them out. We hadn't realized that there were manatees here in The Bahamas. We also met one of the local dolphins that hang around Spanish Wells while we were dinghying into the dock and walking the waterfront. It was like being at Sea World only better because both Rita and the dolphin were wild.
Speaking of dolphins....I have on my list of things to do before I die ...swimming naked with dolphins. Since coming to The Bahamas I have always been thrilled everytime I have seen a dolphin or had a chance to get a picture. When we were anchored on the western shore of Rock Sound two large dolphins swam by Celebrian. Rob called me up from the galley to see them and I made the comment that how I wish I could swim with them. Rob quickly handed me my goggles and fins and without another thought I jumped into the water. By then the dolphins had swum away but when they heard my splash they turned around to see what the sound was. They swam back to within about 15 feet of me and then turned around and continued fishing. I was so delighted to have been that close to them so I guess I can stroke off swimming naked with dolphins; however I would love to have another opportunity to do it all over again.
To go to Harbour Island from Spanish Wells takes you on the north coast of Eleuthera known as the Devil's Backbone. It is highly recommended that you hire a pilot to take you through the intricate coral reefs. We have hired Bandit who also looks after the moorings that we are on. Bandit says that he hopes that we can go on Wednesday so it looks like we will be here for another day. Today we have been getting torrential rain....the first wet front that we have had all season. We have topped up the water tank and the boat has had a good wash. It is wonderful to get the encrusted salt off the decks and hardware. I went ashore this morning hoping to do a little craft store shopping but got caught in the rain...oh well it's fresh water.
Harbour Island is the island of the rich and famous and Rob is hoping to have cocktails with Christy Brinkly but I am thinking more of Richard Gere....we will just have to see? Perhaps we will get to see Jimmy Buffet? The island is approximately 3 miles long by a quarter mile wide and there is a pink sand beach that runs down the whole ocean side. It is the tiny grains of coral and shell that gives it its rosy colour and everyone says you have to see it to believe it. Dunmore Town is the island's only settlement and is primarily a first class tourist resort. There are first class hotels, restaurants, shops and straw market so we will have lots to see and do.