Sunday, January 9, 2011

The Lives of the Rich and Famous at Bell Island, Exumas


From Hawksbill Cay we motorsailed on Exuma Sound, the ocean side of The Exumas and tucked in behind Bell Cay for protection from the upcoming cold front. Most of the anchorages are on the eastern side of the islands and they are fine when you are anchoring in the trade winds; however when the wind comes from both the north and the west it is trickier finding places to be safe and comfortable. Last year we had anchored at Bell and had enjoyed some snorkelling right off the boat.
This year we arrived at our anchorage to find a much more happening beach. Since the island is private we don't venture onto the beach but this year there was a Bahamian police boat that stopped by and made sure that we had no intention of landing on the beach. Evidently someone from California had landed on Johnny Depp's island this year and gone right up to his house. We anchored beside his island last year and I put my big toe on one of his beaches while snorkelling by. Often the islands that are privately owned will have posted signs that say please do not come ashore unless you have been invited. We weren't sure how to get an invitation from Johnny so we just had to be content with watching one of his movies.



As the day unfolded we watched a half a dozen helicopters come and go, an 80 plus foot speed boat fully crewed arrive from Grand Cayman and a sea plane land. The police officer told us that the island was owned by some diplomat and he had other friends in high places. Obviously so as we were not invited to the cocktail and beach party under the various palapa and tiki huts but whoever was on Zarkava, the big boat beside us was. Zarkava had passed us on the banks going about 50 miles per hour. Now she was anchored beside us and once night came we watched as her neon red sign glowed and her underwater lights frightened all of the sea creatures in the anchorage. It was fascinating watching all of the comings and goings on the island. There had to have been at least a million or more dollars worth of play toys out in front of the beach....six sea doos (sea maggots we sailors call them), several ribbed dinghies, three high speed fishing boats and more. Life is certainly different for the rich and famous.

Today we are anchored just off of Sampson Cay Marina. We arrived here yesterday and anchored in a westerly chop which was a little uncomfortable. We spent most of the afternoon ashore doing chores...the laundry, filling diesel jugs and of course the internet...hoping that the wind would drop and the boat would be more comfortable. Finally in the night the wind went down and things settled down so this morning I am able to work on the boat without getting sea sick. In fact we are dead calm this morning and there is a star fish sitting on top of Big Bruce, our anchor.

We are going to go to shore for one more load of diesel and then for a walk before we move south to Big Major off of Staniel Cay. Tomorrow morning we will pick up some groceries in Staniel Cay and then we will be ready to head to the Jumentos.

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